Monday, June 18, 2007

All Roads Lead to Rome

Amy and I landed in Rome late in the afternoon and headed to our apartment on the Via Dei Coronari. I found this great loft on a web site that I've used extensively in my travels for booking accommodations...for those of you plannning to travel in the future, I highly recommend it. It is http://www.venere.com/. It was on a quiet street near the Piazza Navona...the only thing is that it was on the top floor of the building - up about 10 flights of stairs. I think a few of you saw my suitcase before I left....and well, it was as heavy as it was big...so carrying it up the stairs was a 2 person job (thanks Amy). The thing I learned about my particular suitcase, is that it being a little bit of an older style, it's not made from one of these light materials...it is actually heavy...even when it's empty. I realized this could be a problem during two months of travel, so I dediced to keep my eyes open for a lighter version.


When we arrrived at our apartment, we got in touch our friend Mona, also an ex-SCLA comrade, that left in February to come live in Rome (do you see a pattern here?). Mona's been living in Rome for the last 5 months and LOVES it. Seeing her was great - she looked happy and helathy and in her element. By the time we hooked up it was close to 9, so we wandered over to the Trastevere (literally meaning "over the Tevere") and found a little outdoor cafe for dinner. Trastevere is the area where more of the locals hang out - vs. Pantheon or Piazza de Spagna - which is where I've spent more of my tine in past visits to Rome. It was nice to be a little more entrenched with the locals and see how they live.


Our next day, Amy and I really didn't have a plan, so we got up a little on the late side, did a great 5 mile run on the Tevere, and then set out to just wander the streets of Rome. And wander we did...and wander, and wander....for literally hours. I think we say every inch of Rome - or at least it felt like it when we collapsed in our apartment at 7:00. After a quick power nap we headed down to the Campo Di Fiore - endearingly referred to as "the Campo", and had a long and yummy dinner. The campo also seems to be a hot bed of activity after dark. Although with the average age of the "harger outers" in the square beinbg about 16, Amy and I felt like the chaperones. Still - GREAT people watching.


On Thursday, after another ambitious run, Amy and I met up with Mona again, and we headed over to Vatican City to see the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter's Basilica. I'd never seen the Vastican Museum before, and I have to say - for me it was just OK. The first 20 or so rooms were all about pagan Roman art and Egyptian art, which frankly to me have little to do with Christian art which is what I was there to see. Had I gone to the Met to see and Egyptian art exhibit it would have been a different story, but I just expected something different in the Vatican. That being said, as we got closer and closer to the Sistine Chapel, the art became more interesting and relevant...and I began to enjoy it more. When we fianlly got to the Sistine Chapel, the room was literally packed with people. It is supposed to be a "sacred" sight, and the guards in the room kept trying to keep people silent, but it seemed really to be a lost cause. A bit of a a shame really. But the are was very beautiful and told a very intersting story of the history of God and Christianity.


But for all the beauty of the Sistine Chapel, to me, nothing compares to the sheer awesomeness of St. Peter's Basilica. I've been there several times before, but each time I am moved by it's beauty. There's also a little prayer cahpel there that is strictly kept quiet and for prayer only, so that was a nice break from all the tourists. This is, for me, alwasy a highlight of my visits to Rome.


Thursday evening, Shery and her friend Micah from San Francisco got into Rome, so we met up with them yet again in Trastevere. We had a fantastic dinner at a place called Le Mani in Pasta..and proceeded to get very drunk...well at least I did...funny how youl always think everyone else is drunk when you are. But the great thing about Rome is that you walk around so much, that by the time we got home around 2 I wa completely fine. It was totally great to see Sherry who has been on the road travling for the past 9 months. The last time I saw her I met up with her in Australia back in November. Since then she's traveled all over southeast asia, croatia, greece and then spend a month in sorrento taking italian language and cooking school. It's crazy, I've only been on the road about 3 weeks and I feel like I've been gone for so long, I can't even imagine having been traveling for 9 months. That being said, I feel like I could do this forever..at least at this point I feel that way. I love it. I'm so happy and carefree and stress free. It's like, well if we miss our bus or ferry or train, there will be another one coming along soon...so just sit back and relax. Anyway, I'm digressing...



Our last day in Rome was spent much like the first. Running in the morning, and walkeing all afternoon. the big highlight purchase of the day was a new lightweight dufflebag/suitcase, which will now take me through the rest of my trip. I felt a little bad about leaving my last suitcase...but I knew I had a long time to go...and it was just going to get heavier. Made me ahppy that the housekeper at the apartment was trhilled to know she would be a the new owner of a good quality (albeit heavy) red suitcase...



Friday evening we went up to the American Academy, where Mona has been hanging out since she's been in Rome. Her boyfriend got a position a a chef at the Academy, which houses artisitcally brilliant Americans as they study and become inspired to do great things by being in Rome. Composers, artists, historians...all get shcolarships to come and study...and its apparently a big feather in their cap back to the 'real' world. It's a beautful building in Trastevere with an insane view of Rome. I can see why Mona loves it. Sadly she will be retuning to SF at the beginning of July, but I guess all good things must come to an end...including our time in Rome. Saturday we departed for our next chapter...the villa in Siena awaits!

Sunday, June 17, 2007

Erin Go Bragh

Well I've been in Europe for two weeks now, so I apologize for this being the first time I've updated my blog. I'll admit, it's not easy to sit in front of a computer when Europe is right outside the door, but I promise I will do my best to keep you all updated...

I arrived in Ireland on June 6th and met up with my friend Amy who I will be travling with for the next month, and our Irish friend George who now lives in Dublin. Amy and George and I all worked at The Sports Club / LA together, and all left within the last 6 months, and have all spent or will spent at least 2 months traveling before getting back to work. I guess SCLA can do that to you. George was the perfect Irish host and literally made me feel right at home. We spent a day rambling around Dublin before Amy and I hit the road to explore Southwest Ireland in our little black VW Polo. Oh - and just a reminder to all you Yanks...the Irish drive on the other side of the road...and actually that would be a stretch, becuase what they really do is drive right in the middle of the street and swerve out of the way just before hitting you head on. I give Amy a huge amount of credit for attacking the driving in Ireland...and although I only had a couple of branches come inside my left window, she did a great job of keeping us alive in crazy Ireland.

Our three stops on our 6 day tour were Dingle, Kinsale and Kilkenny. If I could make a couple of general observations about Ireland they would be that 1. it is very green, 2. it is very rural, and 3. the people are very friendly. The Dingle Peninsula was the highlight of the trip - with it's stunning views of the sea contrasted by green rolling hills and sheep wandering right down the same road on which you were driving (see pic below). The first day that we were there, we drove up to a coastal town called Castlegregory and hooked up with a real Irish cowboy, Lawrence, to go horse back riding on the beach. It was difficult to guess his age...I think the sea air gave him a few extra years...but he was roughly 50. So I started asking him some questions...Have you lived in Castlegregory all your life? Have you ever been to the US? Turns out he had never left Castlegregory and never traveled to the US. As we rode our horses along the beach of the Atlantic, I commented that it was mind boggling that Ireland and the US share this ocean. Lawrence said...yes, next stop, New York City! Next stop indeed, but a world away. When I told Lawrence what I would be seeing on my trip, he said that I'd see nearly the whole world before I was done...so interesting how our perpectives are so different. I wouldn't trade my life for anything, but I do have a curious respect for people that lives of such simplicty. Seems we can learn a thing or two from these folks.

Amy and I spent the rest of our day wandering on the beach and then having dinner in a typical Irish pub. As it turned out, we sat next to a French couple from Brittany. They spoke very little english, so my french was put to the test....and, well...I didn't completely suck...at least enough to translate for Amy and get us through about an hour of conversation. My 7th grade French teacher Ms. Forrester would be so proud.

Our next day involved a trip to the Blasket Islands off the farthest west coast of Ireland. Another breathtaking excursion...complete with donkeys, sheep and a local boat driver. Amy and I kept wondering what do all these people do for work....there's literally no industry there. So we asked - and the answer we got was that in the off season, he pulls pints at the local bar...a very healthy part of the Irish culture.

The next day we drove into Kinsale, south of the town of Cork. We stayed there a night and then set off to visit the Blarney Castle and the Kilkenny Castle. Amy and I both kissed the Blarney Stone, which is said to grant all who kiss it the eternal gift of gab....not sure we needed any help in that area. But to do it you have to lay on your back and arch your neck/head down a hole that leads to a 100 foot drop. A little scary to say the least (pic below). Spent the last night in Kilkenny partying with the locals who dedicated some kind of song to us in the pub...easy to be local celebrities when you're from California.

And the next day we said goodbye to Ireland and set off for our next adventure in Rome. Ireland was a great way to start my journey...at home with friends, surrounded by lush greenery, and a place where you can really just sit back and breathe. But the true beauty of Ireland is in the hospitality the Irish people. All you need to do is share a pint with them and you're their best friend...seems like a culture that works for me!